Why Do the Victoria BC Hidden Gems Drive
Do you want to see less-visited, picturesque places in the suburbs of Victoria? Hop into your car to find these hidden gems far from touristy downtown. This classic drive explores fairy tale castles, heritage homes, and glorious coastal views.
Author & Photographer: George Mitchell
Our advice below is not based on a couple of tourist trips. Our recommendations are based on our extensive experience living in Western Canada. We are avid hikers, nature lovers and photographers (all photos are my own).
All of our recommendations are top-rated by Google Maps Ratings, which is based on everyone, not just tourists. Each place recommended in our custom CA Victoria Map is appended with a Google Maps Rating (G0 to G5).
Point Ellice House
We start today’s itinerary at Point Ellice House, located at 2616 Pleasant St. just before the Bay St Bridge. This Victorian Italianate villa was originally built between 1861 and 1864 and was purchased in 1867 by Peter O’Reilly. He was one of the first Gold Commissioners. This role to adjudicate gold claims was created by Governor Douglas (see The Last Fur Trade Post: Preserving History at Fort St James) after the first Fraser Canyon gold rush (1858). The Brits created these positions to ensure law and order after the experiences of the lawless California gold rush (1849).
Point Ellice House remained in the same family for 108 years. It was sold to the Province of BC in 1975 along with all its belongings — furniture, dishes, pictures, paintings, and wall paper dating from 1890 through 1920. This National Historic Site provides North America’s largest collections of late Victorian and early Edwardian artifacts.
Captain Jacobson House
Just after the Bay St. Bridge, you can stop for coffee at Café Fantastico and/or have a look at Fol Epi next door. Then we headed off to see more heritage homes at 614 Seaforth St. and 507 Head St. in Esquimalt.
The quaint house on Head St. is described as Steamboat Gothic style with dormer windows and a mansard roof. A mansard roof has a four sloping sides punctured by dormer windows. It was invented by François Mansart, an early 17th century French architect of the Baroque Era. It is the typical architectural style of Quebec City.
Each side of the house faces one of the cardinal directions. What better retirement home for a captain? Look for hearts, birds and anchors carved into the siding by the captain. Captain Jacobson was born in Finland (1859) and sailed around the world. He got into the sealing industry and owned several boats, which he could have seen from his large bay windows.
Fort Rodd
The British Royal Navy began using Esquimalt in the 1840s for the lumber trade and support for the Crimean War (1854 to 1856). Fort Rodd is a 1890s fort built to protect the Esquimalt Naval Base. Be sure to visit the heavy guns that could sink enemy ships.
The last British troops in Canada were stationed here until 1906. The British Pacific fleet was disbanded and their ships sent home to defend against the growing German navy. The arms race preceding World War I had begun. Actually, 60 soldiers stayed behind and joined the Canadian Forces. The highest paid (sergeants) earned one dollar per day plus free uniforms and food rations. I’m sure they mainly stayed because they fell in love with a local lass or Vivacious Victoria.
As you can see above, the fort was hidden in the hill and made to look like a farm to fool any invading navy. The fort was abandoned in 1956, and the navy yards today are protected by Air Force jets.
This National Historic Site (fee $4) is open from 10:00 to 16:00 or 17:00 hrs. There are exhibits to see, but as always, listen to the informative interpreters who make the past come alive.
Fisgard Lighthouse
Dramatic Fisgard was the first lighthouse built on our west coast. The light keeper’s house serves as a mini-museum with artifacts from a long gone era. There are good views of the lighthouse and from the lighthouse. The scenic Olympic Mountains are across the strait.
Esquimalt Lagoon
Esquimalt Lagoon from Fort Rodd
Esquimalt Lagoon, shown in the distance above, is a good place to view shorebirds and water birds. It is a very quiet place, popular among the locals for lunch with views of Hatley Castle.
Hatley Park Castle
It’s a winding drive through Hatley Park until we arrive at the back side of Hatley Palace above. Wow, what an entrance to the best hidden gem of this tour! We drove to the main parking lot at the bottom of the hill. It’s a short walk back up to the Castle.
James Dunsmuir inherited his family’s coal mines and dominated the province’s economy in the late nineteenth century. He violently opposed unionization. He also served as the Premier of British Columbia from 1900 to 1902.
This gorgeous building, and National Heritage Site, was built in 1908. James Dunsmuir retired here in 1910 after selling his coal and railway businesses for $11 million. That’s equivalent to $294 million today, adjusting solely for inflation (not buying power). The castle was sold to the federal government in 1940 to be used as a major military college on the west coast, now the Royal Roads University.
The exterior stone work oozes European castle. The lavishness of the interior is enhanced with oak and rosewood paneling. Unfortunately we could not go in as it was orientation day for the new school year.
The sunken gardens and flower beds next to the castle are spectacular. The Dunsmuir family built a “Chinatown” to house the ca. 100 gardeners needed to maintain the grounds! Wow, another free garden.
East Sooke
Heading out of Greater Victoria, we drove to East Sooke, but we were not too impressed thanks to the poor weather. The best part of the dreary, wet day was seeing a grove of Arbutus trees. Yes, they are really that red. No saturation was applied to the photo.
Harris Canyon
From East Sooke, we took the 207 km Pacific Marine Circle Route (Highway 14) through Sombrio Beach and Lake Cowichan, then back via Highway 1 to Victoria. Again, we were not too impressed. This is clearly a case where getting out of the car to explore and hike is better than the drive. Our favourite place was Harris Canyon above.
At this point you could visit or stopover at Charming Chemainus — a Vancouver Island Gem. We did love the murals in there.
Sabhai Thai Restaurant, Langford
For at least two evenings, we ended up with our favourite best hidden gem, the Sabhai Thai Restaurant in Langford. We had our usual favourite, the typical Thai dish of green curry. This place knows how to imbue it with the classic Thai flavours of basil, coriander, kaffir lime leaves, and fish sauce.
We love Thailand, as shown by our spending five months (over three trips) exploring the country. We discussed Thai cuisine and our favourite Thai dishes in our post Chiang Mai – Food, Flowers and Festivals.
Farewell Victoria
Well, we cannot leave without another gorgeous sunset picture. This shot is from the ferry to Vancouver.
Final Comments on this Itinerary
This is a relaxing itinerary where you can experience the lesser-known sights in the suburbs of Victoria.
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Itinerary Map & Resources
Google Maps Ratings
Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels and restaurants (but not cities). All of our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. As it is based on feedback from tourists and locals, it is much more reliable than travel booking websites. We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good; 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent.
Other Places to Add to Your Itinerary
Victoria, the capital city of BC, has the best climate. This is the city of flowers and gardens, views and volcanoes! It’s one of our favourite places. Victoria may just be the best small city to visit in all of North America.
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